‘Mirror, mirror, on the wall; who's the fairest of them all?’ Is this what you silently ask your mirror after dabbing that foundation, applying the perfect shade of lipstick, or even patting your face with an after-shave? May we suggest that you address this query to a skin specialist and finally get an answer, unless you enjoy your slightly narcissistic traits! While you take time to decide, peruse through some not-so-new-but-always-alarming information.
The fourth World Conference on Breast Cancer (held in June this year) saw 650 delegates from 60 countries – including cancer survivors, environmental groups, and NGOs – come together to draw attention to the links between cosmetics and breast cancer. We already know that wide-scale global research has established how one-third of all cosmetic products contain one or more ingredients such as coal tar, formaldehyde, and lead acetate, all potentially linked to cancer. However, the growing awareness among the masses and the increasing pressure on global brands to reveal the real ingredients used in their products is heartening.
Even policies of the Indian Ministry of Trade and Commerce seem to be growing teeth. At the time of writing this article, a random search on Google throws up 754 000 results for 'cosmetics + cancer'! Mind you, the search does not include the wider category of toiletries or 'personal care' products.
Oh, what a beauty! Really?
Academically speaking, understanding the notion of ‘beauty’ could be as difficult as contemplating a measure of Jack’s beanstalk. The notion has undergone a dramatic shift—from the dusky, voluptuous feminine form to the ‘tall, fair, slim’ adage prominently displayed in all matrimonial advertisements. This standardized evaluation of beauty is a product both of the economic and its resultant cultural system. Beauty pageants play a significant role in the whole process of stereotyping a certain image as beautiful. At the surface, they sell products, while on a deeper plane, they reinforce notions about femininity and beauty. That beauty has turned into a competitive sport is most conspicuous in Hindi films and television soaps. And like most other things in our profit-oriented economies, the business of beauty too thrives on stylish and sleek marketing. Cosmetic companies play on notions of femininity and nationalism to make a case with gullible women. Sample this, an Editor’s note from a fashion and beauty magazine, ‘Indian beauties have been world-beaters. Couple that with the superpower India is poised to become. Triple that with the steadily growing liberal economy and foreign brands arriving at our shores. Can you as a modern woman afford to be left out of it all?’
Women are constantly and consistently bombarded with these images through pervasive advertisements that gradually become part of their aspirational list. And whom do they turn to for succour? Of course, to cosmetics and beauty products, while cosmetic manufacturers, marketers, and advertising professionals laugh their way to the bank. The disturbing success of a popular fairness cream – both the product and the advertisement – is a case in point. With an estimated 60 million consumers within the Indian subcontinent and exports to 34 countries in Southeast and Central Asia, as well as the Middle East, the real ‘face’ of the product has been veiled considerably. ‘I used this fairness cream for the period mentioned on the package. Instead of becoming fair, I developed skin problems!’ complains Chandni Sengupta, a college student who was ensnared by the advertising blitz.
After tapping half of the global population, marketers decided to hypnotize the other half of the market—the males. And lo, mass media started announcing the entry of the metrosexual male, one who dons moisturizers, under-eye serums, and loves manicures and orange peel facials. Buoyed by a giant push in sales figures, marketers work incessantly to dish out new products and product extensions. Words and phrases such as ‘new’, ‘with active ingredients’, ‘vitamin enhanced’, and what have you hide the dangerous chemical concoctions they are made up of.
Health, who cares?
Indiscriminate product innovation has led to a larger number of cosmetic products flooding the Indian market. The global cosmetic sales figures skyrocketed in 2003 to US $200 billion. Markets in the developing region have seen an upward trend generated by improving economic conditions, which drove up levels of disposable income on the part of consumers which, in turn, encouraged investment by major manufacturers.
The Drugs and Cosmetics Act, 1940, underlines that cosmetics must comply with standards prescribed by the statute. It also does not allow for deception on the part of the manufacturer and the promoter. Legal measures are delineated so as to control the manufacture, import, and sale of ‘spurious’ and ‘harmful’ cosmetics. The Act also states that ‘false’ claims cannot be made on the package of the cosmetic about its transformative capacities. Surely, if these were implemented – seriously and stringently – most cosmetic manufacturers in India would face criminal charges for misleading the consumers!
A representative of the Central Drugs Standard Control Organization told TerraGreen that it is the responsibility of the state drug licensing authority to issue licenses to all pharmaceutical and cosmetic manufacturers. Further, the Bureau of Indian Standards approves all manufactured drugs and cosmetics, adhering strictly to the Act. The market, however, has relegated all these authorities to the background in its march towards success.
Working on the minds of vulnerable young women, cosmetic manufacturers have had a field day. The façade, however, is now beginning to give way to critical inquiry about the harmful ingredients used in these skin care products. It is not difficult today to come across cases where a particular brand of lipstick led a consumer to the doctor more than once. ‘I had eruptions all over my lips. And yes, I did lodge a complaint with the company but to no avail. All they did was to send a representative who bought my silence with a hamper full of cosmetic products…for free!’ says Jaya Gupta, a retired government employee.
The worst case scenario is one where the consumer is not even aware of the kamikaze mission one is on unless something drastic happens. Vani Arora, a young 20-year-old college student, displays total ignorance about the harmful chemicals being rampantly used in cosmetics despite the resultant health risks. Still others are lured by the ‘herbal’ tag! ‘I use a certain brand only because it is 100% herbal,’ exclaims Pallavi Mehta, another collegian.
To allow cosmetic companies a voice in this article, many manufacturers were contacted. None of them spoke with the TerraGreen team, on one pretext or the other. In fact, several officials of one of the oldest herbal cosmetics brand in India made the team shuttle from one to the other till the team gave up in vain. It seems, however, that it is not only the cosmetic companies who seem to be shying away from divulging any details to the media. Repeated attempts to get in touch with concerned officials from departments handling the cosmetic trade also proved futile. Under the garb of meetings, these officials avoided answering questions posed by this team.
The grim scenario calls for some soul searching on the part of the manufacturers, government officials as well as consumers who have surrendered completely to the charms of cosmetics and toiletries. Cascading colour-induced auburn hair, ruby red matted lips, and kohl-lined eyes are a must have for any woman, thanks to incessant marketing and advertising. Lip service is often paid to inquiries about health hazards associated with these products.
Unless the notion of beauty created by marketers undergoes a change, little can be really done about limiting the use of beauty products. Regulation has hardly made a difference to the manufacturers who flout the rules with impunity. Crores spent on advertising ensures that they never go out of fashion. As for the health concerns, well, you decide.
No comments:
Post a Comment